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Creating Dax Sleeves
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Fabric Options:
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To make the sleeves you have a few fabric options. You can use red fun fur, red berber, real fur dyed red, or
long haired velvet like that found in curtains. The red fur, is difficult to find and also difficult to sew the braid onto. The fun fur is
available in most large fabric stores, and is easy to work with. I personally prefer the velvet. It is washable, easy to sew, and has a depth
of color which the fun fur doesn't have. It's just a personal preference.
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Braid and Decorative Elements:
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The braid used in the original costume isn't that easy to find, so I have chosen to use an other material. I
used the plastic canvas cord available at Wal-Mart and most craft stores. There are number of braids and ribbons available in sewing, craft, and
knitting stores which lend themselves well to this project. The buttons used on the original design, I didn't really like, so I used some nail heads and
fake jewels. Again they were available at Wal-Mart and the local craft stores. (Note: when working with fun fur the braid has to be a bit
thicker in the thin braid, or it is lost in the fur.)
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Sleeve Pattern:
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To create the Dax sleeve, take your favorite sleeve pattern, copy it and get a ruler to modify it. Begin by
drawing a straight line across the top of the sleeve cap. How far up, or down, depends on what you want. You must leave enough of the lower
section of the sleeve to be able to attach it under the arm.
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Cut off the sleeve cap, and dig out your 30 - 60 - 90 degree angle triangle, a large ruler, and a pencil.
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To create the diamond pattern, begin by drawing parallel vertical lines at 2 1/2 inch increments across the
pattern. You then draw a vertical line across the top of the sleeve 1/2 inches from the cutline. This will be where your diamond pattern
ends. Turn your sleeve pattern side ways, and begin drawing the diamond pattern beginning at the first intersection of the parallel line which you
drew across the top of the sleeve.
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Place your triangle on the vertical line and mark out the first line using the 30 degrees and of the triangle to
create the first diamond point as shown in the picture. Set up all of lines in that direction, and then turn the sleeve pattern around to create the
lines running in the other direction. The lines will intersect every 2 1/2 inches. Check the picture for adding the extra diamond pattern down
the sleeve.
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Use the layout shown below in the black and red diamond grid. You do not need to make the diamonds go all the
way to the hem, because it will be hidden under the wrist protector. It is a good idea to have the sleeve taper at the wrist so it will fit under
the wrist protector.
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I used a red and black diamond grid to make it easier to apply the braid. I used the red for the wider braid,
and the black for the thinner. They make patterns that you can apply a single piece at a time but work on several diamonds at once.
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Construction:
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Once the pattern is complete, transfer the pattern to the sleeve material. Depending on which material you use,
you can use pins, a chalk wheel, or some other manner of transfer.
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At this point you are ready to apply your braid. Depending on the shape and texture of your braid, use a zigzag
stitch and some clear nylon mono filament to sew the braid to the fabric. If your braid is relatively smooth, it is possible to use a straight
stitch. For the thin braid, use a zigzag to sew in place.
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Once all your braid is in place, you begin applying the buttons, nail heads, or other decorative elements. Once
that is complete, you then create a bright red corded leather edge and apply it to the top of the sleeve cap.
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Create a casing 1 inch longer than the sleeve section that it is to be sewn onto. Cut the cording 1 inch shorter
than the casing. Pin into place and use a zipper foot to sew into place. Sew onto the top of the sleeve using the zipper foot and sew along
the seam you just made.
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Pin the sleeve sides together. Put a
'even feed foot'
on your sewing machine. If you are working with fake fur, use either clothes pins, leather clips, or paper
clips to hold the material together while you sew. Push the fur in from the edges and make sure all the braid ends, etc. are sticking out, and
carefully sew the seam together being careful not to hit any buttons, nail heads, or beads.
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even feed foot
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Next you hem the sleeve. Once that is completed, you are ready to sew it to your dress. Lineup the notches
from the sleeve and the front of the dress notch. Sew into place.
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Index
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How to make Dax's wrist protectors
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How to make Dax's collar
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